Written by Lewis Cameron

 

Shaun Samson delves into pageantry and sport for his Autumn/Winter ’14 collection, presented as part of the NEWGEN MEN Pop-Up showroom at London Collections: Men, sponsored by Topman and the British Fashion Council.

 

‘I imagine an Eastern European Military Academy and the boys there listening to music when they’re in P.E. class’, Samson says of his inspirations for the collection.  ‘Super masculine references in American sport culture I think become more androgynous and elegant when translated from a different part of the world…things are a bit peculiar and odd – but in a good way’, he continues.

 

School uniform and gym ensembles are interpreted with confident pleats, sweatshirt fabrics drape from necklines, and cosy wool cable knits have seamlessly rolled collars; elements that are traditionally more prevalent in womenswear.  Pleated shirts are made in comfortable flannel and plaid fabrics, and add both a Scottish and grunge edge to the collection, which Samson describes as ‘harmoniously off’.

 

The graphics continue this ‘off’ theme with sweatshirts that are emblazoned with quotes one would find on the walls of a weightlifting room, but blurred so they look like an overlooked mistake.  T-shirts feature wrestlers in mid-move, collaged with mirror and holographic vinyl backgrounds.  Padded looks round off the collection, which is styled throughout with thigh-high hockey socks and floral garlands.

 

The full collection can be viewed at the LONDON show ROOMS: Paris from 17 – 21 January.