Interview with designer Lorraine Dimond

Written by Lewis Cameron

13.03.14

 

1. First off, let’s talk menswear. You are the only person from your graduate class to create menswear designs, tell me why you decided to make men’s garments and what attracted you to do so?

I have always had a masculine approach to my own personal style, often shopping in the menswear departments and I grew up loving streetwear brands like DC and Vans. While in Tokyo I had the opportunity to visit concept stores like A Bathing Ape and Comme Des Garcons, I admired Rei Kawakubo's deconstruction of shapes and fabrics rendering them genderless, and felt this would be a subject which would influence my own work. My first menswear garment I produced was a graphic knitwear jumpsuit, I had found a new obsession. Menswear.

 

2. Your collection is rather androgynous and is of course a unisex collection in full, what do you think is the appeal to modern guys taking more of an experimental risk wearing more feminine designs and silhouettes?

Western fashion aesthetics had been challenged and influenced by the East's gender neutrality, men are feeling more relaxed and confident with their clothing choices concerning shapes and colours and they are experimenting with gender ambiguity. Androgyny in fashion has been predominantly female which is firmly established. I feel male androgyny is becoming more accepted within fashion and visual culture and I respect someone who is confident to break down gender barriers and express their identity, but still feel perhaps it will never be fully accepted within society due to its deep rooted construction. For example, Kanye West strictly referring to his choice of clothing as not a 'skirt' but a 'kilt' which is culturally masculine.

 

3. Tell me about your menswear designs. What was the inspiration behind your collection and tell me more about the vibrant colours and bold digital print patterns you have used?

My collection focuses on Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. It explores what transpires when complete order collapses. Repetitive patterns can help us appear organized and in control, however our minds can be quite chaotic. This is expressed throughout the collection with textile manipulation and the asymmetrical construction of garments with a strong emphasis on graphic patterns and print. The diamond triangle logo used is a play on my name and I was influenced by Bridget Riley's black and white op art, and by the Bauhaus artist's, which injects colour into the collection resulting in an overall 80's feel. Pattern placement, scale, asymmetry, colours and its repetitiveness were really important to reflect order and chaos.

 

4. You are obviously a very ethical fashion designer, why is this important to you and do you think this ties into the growing menswear movement taking place right now within the fashion industry?

Sustainable ethics and sourcing are very important to me as a designer, which is why I focused on my collection's social and environmental impact. I like to shop second hand, and similar to knowing the ingredients in the food and beauty products I use, I like to know the fabric content and origin of a garment. I chose to work with merino wool, organic cotton, tencel, silk bamboo and recycled polyesters that are innovative and gentle on the skin and the environment. I interned with Barbara I Gongini an ethical designer in Copenhagen and realized it is impossible to be completely sustainable, but making conscious decisions throughout the design process will collectively help reduce the negative impact fashion has. I do not think it is or should be gender specific but feel men tend to choose quality functional garments, buying fewer but more versatile pieces that will stay in style and last more than one season. Christopher Raeburn is a designer I admire for his ethical approach, he utilizes re-used military fabrics and parachute silks in his collections and values craftsmanship and quality in doing so.

 

5. What do you think of the growing and emerging menswear scene in the UK & Ireland?

I think London Collection : Men, has had a huge influence both in the U.K. and in Ireland. Men are taking more consideration with their personal style and general appearance, with more brands, variety and styles available. There is a steady rise in Ireland of menswear designers, male models, bloggers, stylists and magazines like Beyond Man and MFI all leading to a pretty exciting time for menswear fashion. A scene which has previously been dominated by womenswear.

 

6. Describe your collection/designs in three words.

Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.

 

7. Describe the typical guy who would wear your designs?

Hui Wang who was photographed for my official lookbook, is a fit model for me, and walked in my show. He is a naturally stylish guy who has the confidence to play with color and print. When I design I have Hui in mind. He suits my style perfectly.

 

8.Who is your favourite menswear designer and why?

Right now I am really excited about KTZ. I love their tribal and hip hop influenced style, combining it with sportswear details and experimental silhouettes with a strong emphasis on graphic patterns. They have acquired a cult following, I can't wait to see their next collection.

 

9. If you could dress one famous male style icon, who would it be and why?

I guess it would be Pharrell Williams. He has effortless style wearing skate inspired clothing, and just gets it so right everytime. He loves shorts too. Dressing Daft Punk and Pharrell at the same time, that would be pretty cool.

 

10. What are your future plans for your menswear designs?

I am currently working on a new collection and collaborating with a local MC. I recently made a short film for my degree collection and hope to continue using film as a medium in the future.