Written by Lewis Cameron

Jan.30.14

 

WGSN Global Menswear Designer Award winner Oliver Spencer presented his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection a few weeks back at LC:M and I was there to get the low down on all the latest trends, styles and silhouettes Oliver magnificently incorporated into his newest collection.

 

Described as a “cross-generational” collection featuring a “strong luxury urban aesthetic”, Oliver Spencer showcased tweed suits, a suave camel coat, a trendy savvy suede bomber jacket plus real ’generational’ men on the catwalk and a final look featuring a vibrant and bold burnt yellow trench coat.  

 

Other notable highlights included a woollen, matching tartan coat and tartan trousers, a camouflage blazer, a retro floral print bomber jacket and matching pyjama suit. All to the live instrumental beat of the drum by Specials’ drummer John ‘Brad’ Bradbury.

 

Inspired by Le Corbusier, (leader of the Purist art movement 1918 – 1925), Spencer was motivated by urban renewal and Cobusier’s mechanical, modular designs and modern materials; geometric spaces
flooded with colour.

 

Fabrications have been re-worked with new weaving techniques; a modern architectural take on a classic herringbone. Rhythm and repetition inspire pattern and prints. Performance fabrics reference
Corbusier’s ‘machines for living;’ Lightweight Nylon has heavy influence. Geometric shapes and colour are introduced in a nod towards Tartan.

 

The clean and sharp architectural lines of Unité d'Habitation influence traditional tailoring to create a modern fit for the season. Key pieces include the Shawl Collar Donegal Jacket, Lightweight Nylon Mac, Judo Pants and the Caramel Epsom Coat that embody Spencer’s approach to evolutionary design.