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METAL MAN: DUNCAN CHAMBERS

Lookbook

By Lewis Cameron

Fri. 7. June.

Last year in the month of June, I had my first visit to the University of Ulster’s Graduate exhibition. Upon arrival, I was instantly drawn to the stunning designs of the colourful and cutting edge craftsmanship on display in a variety of settings and presentations throughout the building’s spacious atrium foyer consisting of contemporary white walls and translucent glass. One in particular immediately caught my attention,  the futuristic and metallic creations of silversmith student and jewellery designer Duncan Chambers. On display for all to admire and adore. I.e a chance for me to entice Duncan into showcasing his work on the catwalk for the very first time and style a shoot with a male model as an added bonus.

Fast forward a few months, myself, model Rick, photographer Simon Crawford and designer Duncan Chambers all gathered in the then recently opened Filthy Chic. The perfect setting featuring majestic white walls and elegant, opulent chandeliers, serving as an attractive backdrop for Duncan’s avant garde infused ‘Stylus’ collection.

A range of luxurious brooches, pendants, necklaces and assorted accessories Duncan crafted having grown up around design and having found his own niche along the way. Citing confusion, opportunities and finding his own feet as his main reasons for studying in Northern Ireland.

The words ‘shape’ and ‘form’ with ‘the destruction of the shape and the creation of the form’ being the starting point for the Stylus range and its initial design process. “I take my shapes, score the metal and fold them together to create my final result. Basically a Primary School style set-up of a cube frame before the soldering iron makes an appearance.”

Finding inspiration from architectural and sculptural designs featuring clean and futuristic lines and taking the Latin name Stylus, meaning switch blade or knife, finding further influence from stiletto shapes coming up and around to conclude the overall progression of the captivating collection. Opting to stay away from current trends as much as he possibly can.

Why? Because Duncan feels it ultimately effects the look of his own work in the long run, rendering it adequately similar to pieces readily available on the high-street. By keeping a peripheral vision on current fashion movements, Duncan believes he can focus on his own unique design aesthetic and keep his collections true to the philosophy of his initial concept. He does however love the work of Wendy Ramshaw. A woman who crafted elaborate chest pieces and multiple rings featuring a puzzlesque theme.

A theme Duncan is interested in deeply. Especially when it comes to incorporating it inside his own jewellery conceptual structure of shape and form. “When her pieces are actually off the body they are like a little piece of sculpture. Like a jigsaw. Her work is fantastic.” Duncan however assures me that as a young designer, you have to stay truthful to your own artistic vision and take a subjective stance on our own approach to creation. “Not everyone is going to be interested in what you are trying to do. If you keep working away at what you believe in, someone, somewhere, in someway, will hopefully pick up on that.”

Duncan even dismissed my idea of an unlimited budget and what he would create if money was no object, preferring to stick to what he loves best. “Brooches, earrings, pendants and necklaces allow the wearer to be free to express themselves. It is down to the clothes they are worn on rather than the body.”

Photography by Simon Crawford. Designer: Duncan Chambers. Model: Rick Grondin. Special thanks to Filthy Chic for allowing us to shoot on location. 

 


 

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