Written by Lewis Cameron

Thurs. 11. July.

 

Beyond Man chats to former Van Der Simon clothing and knitwear designer Sean Henry on matters of his previous collections, the menswear scene in Northern Ireland and hideous bootcut jeans. 

 

BM: When did you realise you wanted to become a designer? And when/why did you decide to specifically become a knitwear designer?

SEAN: I first realised when I was about 12, I was watching a girl doing her GSCEs in Fashion illustration and I was mesmerised by her drawings and the alien like figures she was creating. When she finished and I returned to school in September, she left me a present with 3 illustrations and said "if you wanna do fashion then do it, don’t be ashamed because of who you are and be yourself so others can see the true you". I actually still have the illustrations somewhere safe - (the attic) and it wasn’t until my foundation year that I took a real interest in fashion. I originally wanted to become an architect because it was the manly thing to do - I was hiding from myself and being someone else. I then went into fashion, and fell in love with knit.

 

BM: How did you go about learning the necessary skills needed to create your own collections?

SEAN: A lot of interning, and a lot of questions. I am a very inquisitive person. I class myself as being very vocational - my brain is weird I use about 50% of each side when being creative, I use a lot of logic to be artistic. I also went off to University at Manchester Metropolitan School of Design. It was a waste of 21k for a piece of paper, but I had fun - met a lot of people and I was taught some valuable life skills as well as necessary work skills.

 

BM:How did your experiences in Manchester compare to Belfast?

SEAN: Belfast - do I have experiences here? I have to defend myself against the hidden wolves of Facebook, the elites that call themselves the fashion saviours of Northern Ireland. Although I have worked with a good few companies here, and I first got taught my skills of being an avant gardist when I have the time by the lovely Una Rodden. I have had experiences in Belfast where I think people understand fashion beauty, I see it a lot in the younger generation running the high-streets at night. They seem to be more fashion focused than the people who can afford to be. It is difficult to compare the two - but Manchester is just an easier fashion choice to live in.

 

BM:Talk me through your three menswear looks from Man Time‘s debut show last Spring. Themes? Tone? Design? Inspiration?

SEAN: Well, I hadn’t sewn in a while, being a full time knitter - but I wanted to express my craziness in 3 looks ...one that failed dramatically.

The suit - Spring/Summer floral cotton printed suit. I just wanted to mix up some colours, I didn’t care if it wasn’t pleasing or matching. There wasn’t any design behind them, they lacked what menswear is all about..detail..they lacked LIFE, but then showed spirit. The knitted pieces where my favourites. The cardigan blazer was my all time adored piece. I just loved it. It was pure 100% merino wool and it was beautifully comfortable. It was simplistic and minimal in design with the knitted trousers complimenting it perfectly whilst my bone knit vest and floral orange cargo pants brought a little bit of both worlds blending nicely between the two suits.

 

BM: Who are your favourite menswear designers and why?

SEAN: RICK OWENS. His designs are orgasmic, plus we have similar interests in concept and design. He is also a master of tailoring and leather craft. If I could afford a designer lifestyle I would be wearing him. I also love Sibling of London. The knitwear they produce is un real, three geniuses behind the brand that just wow us each season. I have 2 of their jumpers and I love them, although I only wear them to special occasions because they cost me over 500 quid each.

 

BM: Your AW12 collection was based on the Boy in the Striped Pyjamas, explain how you took this idea and made it a reality into a collection?

SEAN: Well I normally always have a sketch book with me, and I was literally watching the movie, and I was drawing out shapes and thinking of ways of twisting the garments, because the movie has a twist in it.. and next thing you knew I had like 10 sketches of jittered edges and stripes and twisted skirts on dresses…

I basically turned around and said I think I’m going to make these.

 

BM: Men’s Style Icons and why?

SEAN: James Dean - simple, clean, youthful and held confidence. Rick Owens again, because I love his personal style as well as his collections. And myself. Because I think you have to use yourself as your own icon to understand your own individual style.

 

BM: What do you think of the small men’s fashion scene here in NI?

SEAN: I think I could count 10 fashionably interesting guys in Northern Ireland. Just because you wear a sharp suit with an Alexander McQueen Tie, does not make you fashionable. The Men, 3/4s of the city still wear boot cut jeans. I think Belfast Shops are the only place in the whole of UK that probably still sell boot cut jeans. Little by little there is change - but the voice behind the talent needs a much louder platform to speak from.

 

BM:If you could go back in time to the days when you were a menswear blogger what advice would you give to yourself from the things you have learnt in the last year?

SEAN: Be the person you are wearing, make sure the personality matches the outfit. And save for some proper gear. I am sick of high street clothes falling to pieces. We call it designer for a reason.

 

BM:What advice would you give to design students?

SEAN: Don’t go for the high end fashion jobs because you think its cool - and you'd love to work for them. Go the commercial route, make sure you get a paid job and earn money before exploring the higher market in fashion.

 

Photography by: Simon Crawford

Styling by: Jamie Russell & Lewis Robert Cameron

Models: Cathan McRoberts & Phelan Trayte Hardy

Designs: Sean Henry

Location: Cuckoo Belfast